30, Grand Canal Townlands Offaly, East to West: Toberdaly to Coole, No 30 in the Grand Canal Offaly Series. By Philomena Bracken, Offaly History

Today with the canal being a popular walking destination, you can see along the canals places associated with the townlands . Just outside Rhode, on the way to Edenderry, are the ruins of old windmills of the eighteenth century. These once had a wind shaft mounted in the cap (one is preserved at the Guinness brewery and was used by the Roe distillery). The wind turned the millstones in the tower below and were used to help ground grains for flour.

Seven windmills are known to have been constructed during this period in Offaly. By 1830, most of the windmills had gone out of service. The last windmill to be used was dated up to 1880, called the Fahy Windmill[1]. Tullamore had two in the eighteenth century on the hill behind O’Moore Street.

(01Fahy Windmill/ Image Source Did you know Quirky Facts book by Amanda Pedlow )

Along the canal line we come to Toberdaly in the Electoral Division of Ballyburly, in Civil Parish of Castlejordan, in the Barony of Warrenstown, in the County of Offaly. The Irish name for Toberdaly is Tobar Dálaigh meaning Daly’s well.

 
(02.The Grand Canal in east Offaly from William Larkin’s map of 1809

Toberdaly townland has a number of archaeological features, including an ancient burial mound, and in the same barrow two enclosures, now gone. The ruins of Toberdaly Castle can also be found on a hillside, which we talk about in detail next.  Near this castle is a children’s Burial Ground (Cillin).

From Ballybrittan to Toberday: from the 1838 OS Index sheet

Toberdaly townland population and number of houses, 1841-1911

TownlandAreaPop. in1841Pop. in 1851No. of Houses in 1841No. of Houses in 1851Pop in 1871Pop in 1911No. of Houses in 1871No. of Houses in 1911
Toberdaly1,552 acres29725048391181512531
The population and the number of houses were down by half in the period 1841-1911.
03.Toberdaly census of 1901, the household return Image source. www.census.nation.archives.ie)

In 1901 Toberdaly had one of the largest  record of houses in the area, during this period the household returns and ancillary, shows us that there was 30 buildings all of Private Dwelling, with all 30  inhabited, with classes of houses between 1st , 2nd and 3rd . Here are some of the families that occupied these houes during this time:

Class of HouseSurnameReligionOccupations in HouseFamily members
3rdGill/Jackson/Henny LoganRCFarmer, Domestic Servant5  
3rdMalone/DunneRCAgrl Labourer Labourers Wife  5
3rdFoyRCFarm Servant8
2nd CoxRCLabourer Agrl Black Smith Servant10
 JonesRCCarpenter Servant3
3rdHannifyRCGardener/HouseKeeper/Servant7
2ndSheeran/ManganRCCarpenter3
2ndKiernanRCHouseKeeper/Dressmaker Labourer Agrl3
Most of the people here were employed by the Beaumont Nesbitt estate at Toberdaly with its ‘big house’ that was burned during the civil war by a roving IRA group of anti-Treatyites. In 1901 the Nesbitt house was occupied by Davidson, a lady’s maid, and had 32 rooms. The Gill family were next in size of rooms with nine in all

As you travel to Toberdaly Bridge you will be able to see the ruins of the Toberdaly Castle. This monument is only a short trip from the canal and is well worth a visit.

04.Toberdaly townland, Image source Townsland.ie/ Offaly History Centre/ did you know

The Toberdaly Castle dates back to 15th, the castle tower stands tall beside the old Toberdaly house. Sadly tragedy stuck the area in 1923, when the mansions were destroyed in the process of the Republican IRA burning of the big houses. For more detail on Toberdaly and the story  behind the burning check out “The burning of the Big House at Toberdaly/ Toberdaly, Rhode, County Offaly and the departure of E.J. Beaumont Nesbitt. By Michael Byrne” on Offalyhistoryblog.com

05.Toberdaly house/ tower house and folly, Image source Offaly History Centre. 32 rooms in 1901
(06.Tower house and folly, Image source Offaly History Centre)

Historical references to the place name from Logainm.ie

Rebel Action along the Canal Line:

In the time of War and Revolution, the lines along the canal, has seen some historical events. Rebel activists took control of the canal along the Edenderry line, with the seizure of two chests of arms, in the early hours on December 1797. The arms were captured by the rebels and were never recovered[2]

General Cornwallis, used the Canal when arriving from England, he sailed along the canal with his forces via Edenderry to Tullamore. After hearing that United Irishmen were in talks for aid from Napoleon. Britain sent soldiers to deal with the situation, Urgent messages were sent to France, and on August 1798, French forces landed in Killala.

09. Lord Cornwallis.

After a heroic fight, Humbert and his fleet along with a small group Irish rebels, won the battle of Castle bar. One of the key moments during the Irish rebellion, Lord Cornwallis was determined to take back control and with over 13,000 enforcements, intercepted Humbert in Ballinamuck.

After the Battle was lost at Ballinamuck in 1798, the French who had joined the Irish Rebels, were made prisoners of war, and were transported to Dublin, via the Canal line. People gathered to the banks of the canal to see the historical sight. The prisoners were reported to be in high spirits and sang Marseillaise to the people.

The battle at Ballinamuck, was known as Bliain na bhFrancach “The year of the French”. For any Irish who had accompanied them were pursed, captured and executed. The 1798 Rebellion was one of the most widespread of all the Irish rebellions[3].

Townland of Coole

Coole is in the Electoral Division of Croghan, in Civil Parish of Ballyburly, in the Barony of Lower Philipstown, in the County of Offaly

The Irish name for Coole is Cúil an Chnapaire meaning Corner of the strong person/place.

10. Coole townland.ie Image Source: Townlands.ie
11 The half-inch showing Toberdaly demesne from Downshire Bridge to Toberdaly

Coole, 1841-1911

TownlandAreaPop. in 1841Pop.in 1851No. of Houses in 1841No. of Houses in 1851Pop. in 1871Pop. in 1911No. of Houses in 1871No. of Houses in 1911
Coole777 31824453511371003523
The population of Coole fell from 318 to just 100 in the seventy years 1841 to 1911.
12 Coole census of 1911 Image source. www.census.nation.archives.ie

In 1911 Coole had an average record of houses in the area, during this period the household returns and ancillary, shows us that there was 23 buildings all of Private Dwelling, with 22 inhabited, with classes of houses between 2nd and 3rd. Here are some of the families that occupied these buildings during this time:

Class of HouseSurnameReligionOccupation in HouseFamily members
3rdGreeneRCFarmer 5  
3rdMahon/DareRCFarmer/Servant 10
3rdCullen/HarveyRCHouse Keeper 2
2nd BrienRCFarmer4
 MahonRCFarmer/General Labourer/Insurance Agent 7
3rdTracyRCFarmer4

Historical references to the place name from Logainm.ie

Coole townland, is a lovely spot along the way to take a break, it has plenty of grass areas to just sit and enjoy your surroundings, if you’re lucky you might catch the sight of a crane along the bank, the canal has a good supply of fish and trees along the way that provides a roosting spot, all year round. You will find many different species of butterflies and insects that provided a food supply for smaller birds, like the Grey Wagtails, robins and if you’re very lucky you may spot a Kingfisher, These birds today are a rare find, if they are nesting nearby, then they will come out to feed on dragonflies and small fish.

15. Wildlife on Irish Canals Image Source Nature on Irish Canals.

With the construction of the canal along bog land, Soil had to be brought from different locations to help support and prop up the banks, with these came a variety of different seeds. As a result, a large selection of different vegetation have come up along the bankside, this with the hedgerow has created a number of habitats for much of the wildlife[4].   

16. Wildlife on Irish Canals, Coole townlands Image source : Johnston and Dromey, Wildlife on Irish Canals

[4] See “Nature on Irish Canals” Brid Johnson and Marie Dromey, The stationery Office, Pp11-31

[3] See “Ireland’s Eye Magazine, Cheryl Devaney, Pp1-2

[2] See “Safe Harbour, The Grand Canal at Edenderry” Mairead Evans & Therese Abbott” Topic Newspapers Ltd, P1

[1] See “Did you know?” 100 quirky facts about county Offaly, Amanda Pedlow. Pub Offaly County Council 2013, p11.